This collection was shown at Lincoln Center in the New York State Theater and the women’s classic American sportswear felt right at home in a beautiful setting. There was no print in sight but the solid fabrics were rich in appearance due to the draped structure of the jackets and wide trousers. The shape of the trousers varied from a jogger pant reminiscent of a harem style, pleated trouser, wide cropped trouser and cotton twill cropped zip trouser. Cream, stone, black and the main color navy seemed like basics that are with you forever. There were items for the must have list, like the cream cotton voile blouson, stone cotton trench, white/navy silk twill hooded kimono or orange crepe sweater dress. The black silk cloque tunic and skirt with sheer center was ever so chic.
Reem went back in time to a palace where women dressed in opulent fabrics, some with semi-precious stones and dresses that felt like one of a kind. She told me that the dress has been a focus for the past couple of seasons, and as her expertise it continued strongly in this collection. The geometric embroidered shirt dress with deep notch collar looked very intricate and magical with all the beading. More simplistic was the raspberry and tangerine charmeuse wrap dress with a blouson back or the sunshine elaborate French cuffed pleated dress that gave her clientele a more understated option. This collection was about gold, shine, Lurex and iridescent fabrics and for the lady who appreciates an artistic approach to evening.
Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2009
September 12th, 2008
It is hard to believe that this entire collection was ready-to-wear as it looked haute couture to even the trained eye. This spectacular collection was made in American factories and executed out of Ralph Rucci’s New York atelier. I had asked him why there was little color and due to the high techniques used in structure and geometric forms a color story of black, white, ivory, taupe and alabaster became the natural evolution for this very intricate collection. Ralph’s play on sheer fabrics with texture crafted an ivory dress and coat embellished with rectangular double-faced wool insets floating on tulle. The diagonal pin tucks shaped like double-headed nails cinched the waist of suit jackets and a silk faille rain jacket. The black silk tulle ribbon dress with tight bodice and full skirt simply floated and the black jersey tube dress with sheer inserts and high slit was very hot and sexy. The white silk crepe gown ornamented with silver Mylar fringe cascading down the back caught your breath. Mercedes-Benz honored Ralph Rucci as the featured designer for New York Fashion week and this artistic master’s broad range of sophisticated colors, architecturally complex construction and sleek silhouettes deserved the standing ovation at the end of his show.
This whole collection was based on the square and rectangle with a modern graphic approach to dresses, skirts and swimwear. High shine and silver metallic were the focal point with very little color except grass, canary or chocolate. Carmen had decided that the woman wearing his collection likes to be sexy. The cocktail dress was concocted in many woven versions but each one had a twist based on the fabric in patent leather, silk ribbon, or pearl organza ribbon. The over sized basket weave was exceptional and based on the geometric shape Valvo played with this season.
The jodhpur was a key pant this season as it was shown in British khaki, olive and smoky lavender all looking very new. Just below the knee and tight on the leg it had great sex appeal especially if paired with a sequin knit tank top. There was a lot of surface interest with hammered sequins, pin-tucking, embroidery and metal embellishments. Another key message was feminine over sporty like the pin-tuck voile top with tiger silk short and mixing opposite patterns together, leopard knit top over a floral skirt or color blocking effect. The boy blazer being structured felt fresh with soft fabrics or layers of flounce. Taylor reinvented basics by adding a twist for a contemporary feeling.
Key Trends/Highlights:
• Jodhpur with tie front at knee
• Tiger print silk shorts
• Boy blazer
• Pin-tuck voile top
• Cream poplin blouse with embroidered neckline
• Hammered sequin knit dress
• Cream poplin sundress with embroidered neckline
• Leopard tee shirt skinny dress
• Orchid silk cloque asymmetric dress with metal embellishment
Michelle Smith returned back to the 60’s and 70’s with her earthy and bohemian collection influenced by icon Marissa Berenson. Back stage, Michelle told me she keyed into very relaxed and slouchy silhouette this season. Interjected were a couple triangle bikinis that were part of her swimwear collection. There was a lot of embellishment and great sportswear items such as tassel embroidery short, jacquard tab short, twill safari trouser, and cotton crochet coat. Earth tones were mixed with bright colors like lavender, citron, watermelon, aqua and persimmon which gave life to a neutral palette. All groupies will be able to find pieces to wear alone or as an outfit.
Key Trends/Highlights:
Rainbow floral silk chiffon caftan
Olive cotton tassel embroidery short
Lavender silk chiffon medallion print ruffle blouse
Chocolate cotton cloque short
Aqua cotton crochet sweater coat ¾ length
Ecru cotton crochet coat
Olive cotton twill safari pocket trouser with full leg
Persimmon double silk chiffon ruffle blouse
The Brazilian landscape, flowers, rainforest, and water had a huge impact on this collection representing the most stunning and glamorous dresses. Vibrant colors like mandarin, royal blue, raspberry and aqua looked scrumptious in flowing silk satin gowns. The magnificent rainforest printed silk chiffon asymmetric gown and water reflection iridescent printed silk satin mini were outstanding for any woman wanting to make an individual statement of taste. If color is not one’s personality, the black and white flower shadow strapless dress with a black guipure lace overlay and stone embroidery would be a staple in the closet for years. Seu Jorge, a Brazilian singer worked his moves and voice on the runway with the models sounding smooth but powerful.
Key Trends/Highlights:
• Flower shadow print silk satin strapless dress with black guipure lace overlay and stone neckline
• Red silk satin chiffon and organza gown with black guipure lace detail
• Chantilly silk satin pleated dress with black trim detail
• Raspberry silk satin and chiffon dress with ruffled detail
• Rainforest print silk chiffon and satin asymmetric gown
• Water reflection print silk satin mini dress with tulip layers
• Mandarin silk satin gown
• Raspberry silk satin and chiffon gown
• Light gold and light beige silk organza and satin asymmetric gown
Exquisite floral prints inspired by renowned artists like Monet, Renior, Pissarro and Manet. The colors are so lush they remind you of a beautifully manicured garden. A watercolor plaid skirt created a fresh approach for spring adding a twist to a traditional fabric. Solid fabrics had added interest with shine, zippers or a deep concentration of color such as regal purple. Solid satin fabrics were fluid with flounce sleeves or cascading hemlines. Cigarette pants, three tier scalloped skirt and patch work tunic are great items within the collection but the fluid dresses are the foundation and focal point.
This collection emulates a woman who appreciates romantic details such as floral applications, lace, ruffles, flounce hems and femininity. There were outstanding trench coats for day into evening that could work over pants in various widths or pretty dresses. Even the leather appliqué jacket, tiered skirt and leather stove pipe pant had a romantic edge straying far from “biker chic” but very new at heart. Assorted dresses from a chiffon ruched bodice to a long godet slip and Cubist abstract dress would fulfill most occasions. There were many pretty blouses, skirts or pants that could be individual items in any wardrobe.
By. Susan Hersh
Key Trends/Highlights:
• Eggshell triple ruffle sleeve T shirt
• Onyx appliqué lace ballerina dress w/ nude lining.
• Teardrop blue chiffon ruched dress
• Cubist abstract inset dress
• Ginger washed leather appliqué jacket & appliqué lace tiered skirt
• Cement satin back linen trench & leather stove pipe pant
• Rosewood mélange linen embroidered bouquet trench
• Pale oleander roses trench w/ tie belt
• Rosewood mélange linen jacket and linen eyelet short
• Jade green stripe shirred shell and guipure lace tiered skirt
The key message in Alexandr Terekhov’s collection was a print of the world that he cleverly incorporated into many dresses. The opening world map sleeveless silk dress with rope belt was outstanding especially with the luscious based blue color. The overall aesthetic of the collection was modern and clean including the execution of leather and suede. Working with leather to create a supple hand to the eye is no easy feat but it appeared effortless in this collection. The white one shoulder long sleeve dress and yellow sleeveless viscose dress were both at the knee and had great sex appeal.
By.Susan Hersh
Key Trends/Highlights:
• Multicolor world map printed rope knee length sleeveless silk dress
• Raspberry suede top and high waist suede miniskirt
• White sleeveless leather top and white mini skirt
• Beige short sleeve suede mini dress w/ sash
• White one shoulder long sleeve knee length silk dress w/ white leather belt
• Yellow sleeveless knee length viscose dress
• White ¾ sleeve knee length leather kimono w/ white leather belt
• Black silk gown w/ white floral appliqué on shoulder and waist
Neutral colors dominated the runway in soft draped fabrics such as rayon jersey, silk jersey and silk georgette. If there was any color apparent, one could find pale blue, seafoam, apricot and light mauve, twisted, draped, knotted or flowing creating many dresses from above the knee to ankle length. There was very little structure except for an oxford vest, leather jacket, faille trouser, or nylon cap sleeve jacket. This collection was very understated and Max Azria must have been following his own trend.
By. Susan Hersh
Key Trends/Highlights:
Cloud rayon jersey dress
Navy crepe off shoulder dress
Seagreen silk jersey halter dress and grey ribbed belt
Pale grey cotton oxford vest and cotton oxford trouser with grey ribbed belt
Oyster silk jersey one shoulder tunic with clay batiste pant with side split detail
Beige leather jacket
Designers for Tulle & Cloth Logic share their collections with Rocco G of Fashion News Live during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring '09 at Smashbox Studios in Los Angeles.
Fashion News Live host Rocco G interviews Paris Hilton, covergirl to GenLUX Magazine's 2008 holiday issue, and other attendees at the launch party in Beverly Hills. Check out Rocco as he chats with GenLUX's Publisher Cecilia Moreno, Editor-in-chief Samia Arslane, Creative Director Stephen Kamifuji,
Disney actress Selena Gomez updates Rocco G from Fashion News Live on her current projects before the Whitley Kros show at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Makeup artist Sharon Gault chats with Rocco G of Fashion News Live about her career, her experiences with Madonna and her upcoming projects with Lady Gaga and other artists.
Designer Kevan Hall talks about his collection while awaiting his show to begin backstage with Rocco G of Fashion News Live during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
George Blodwell and Steven Kamifuji of Genlux Magazine talk about their experience and publication with Rocco G of Fashion News Live during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Whitley Kros designers Marissa Ribisi and Sophia Banks, plus their star publicist Kelly Cutrone of People's Revolution, talk about the hip collection with Rocco G of Fashion News Live during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Designers featured during the Green Humanitarian Initiative fashion show: Emily Factor, M the Movement, Kathleen Plate from SmartGlass Jewelry, and Sandy Skinner from EcoSkin tell Rocco from Fashion News Live about their collections during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Designer Julia Clancey chats about her line pre-show with Rocco G of Fashion News Live during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009. Hairstylist Sid Curry also gives some tips for the coming season!
Ed Hardy and American Lord designer Christian Audigier talks about his brand and his Spring 2009 lines with Rocco G of Fashion News Live during LA Fashion Week.
Rocco G of Fashion News Live talks to Katy Winn, photographer for Getty Images and fashion week staple, about her craft and recent experiences at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Joe D'Amore, businessman and father to Caroline D'Amore--designer for the D'Amore for Marceau collection, shows support for his daughter during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009 with Rocco and Fashion News Live.
Filmmaker Robertino Fonseca discusses the concepts for his films with Rocco of Fashion News Live while on his way to LA Fashion Week Spring 2009. Check out his work through CinemaRob on Youtube.com!
Model and actor Vincent De Paul catches up with Rocco G of Fashion News Live, with whom he used to model, post-show at the Green Humanitarian Initiative fashion show during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
The Hills cast member Lo Bosworth discusses Lauren Conrad's upcoming Spring collection with Rocco G of Fashion News Live at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Director of public relations for Monarchy, Tracy May discusses the future of the line at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009 with Rocco G of Fashion News Live.
Actress Tia Mowry catches up with Rocco G of Fashion News Live on her role on "The Game" and her personal life during the Kevan Hall show at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Actor Terry Crews talks fashion while attending the Green Initiative Humanitarian Fashion Show during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009 with Rocco G of Fashion News Live.
One of the "Girls Next Door" Holly Madison chats with Rocco G of Fashion News Live after the Lauren Conrad Collection show during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Playboy Playmate Heather Rene Smith talks about the movie "House Bunny" and what it's like being part of Playboy with Rocco G of Fashion News Live post-show at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Singer Gavin De Graw chats about his current music projects with Rocco G of Fashion News Live backstage at the Lauren Conrad show during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Post-Kevan Hall show, Los Angeles Mayor Villaraigosa and Smashbox Studios co-owner David Factor talk about the fashion industry at LA Fashion Week with Rocco G of Fashion News Live.
Davis Factor, co-owner of Smashbox Studios, location of LA Fashion Week, discusses their future with IMG and fashion week with Rocco G of Fashion News Live amidst the pre-show hustle and bustle.
Dania Ramirez from Heroes talks with Rocco G of Fashion News Live about the new season of her show and her outfit front row at Whitley Kros during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Steven "Cojo" Cojocaru catches up with Rocco G of Fashion News Live to let him know what's on his mind while attending the Lauren Conrad Collection at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Brent Bolthouse of Bolthouse Productions and Heidi's boss from "The Hills" chats pre-show on the runway with Rocco G of Fashion News Live at Kevan Hall during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Aubrey O' Day talks to Rocco G of Fashion News Live about her dog, her clothes, and her leaving Danity Kane while attending the Sheiki Collections show at LA Fashion Week Spring 2009.
Apollonia and Gurutej talk front row with Rocco G of Fashion News Live before the Leila Hafzi show during LA Fashion Week Spring 2009. In addition to supporting the designer, the twosome discuss a yoga lifestyle.
