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Thursday, 23 October 2008 |
Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2009
September 11th, 2008
This collection was shown at Lincoln Center in the New York State Theater and the women’s classic American sportswear felt right at home in a beautiful setting. There was no print in sight but the solid fabrics were rich in appearance due to the draped structure of the jackets and wide trousers. The shape of the trousers varied from a jogger pant reminiscent of a harem style, pleated trouser, wide cropped trouser and cotton twill cropped zip trouser. Cream, stone, black and the main color navy seemed like basics that are with you forever. There were items for the must have list, like the cream cotton voile blouson, stone cotton trench, white/navy silk twill hooded kimono or orange crepe sweater dress. The black silk cloque tunic and skirt with sheer center was ever so chic.
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Thursday, 23 October 2008 |
Reem Acra Spring 2009
September 11th, 2008
Reem went back in time to a palace where women dressed in opulent fabrics, some with semi-precious stones and dresses that felt like one of a kind. She told me that the dress has been a focus for the past couple of seasons, and as her expertise it continued strongly in this collection. The geometric embroidered shirt dress with deep notch collar looked very intricate and magical with all the beading. More simplistic was the raspberry and tangerine charmeuse wrap dress with a blouson back or the sunshine elaborate French cuffed pleated dress that gave her clientele a more understated option. This collection was about gold, shine, Lurex and iridescent fabrics and for the lady who appreciates an artistic approach to evening.
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Thursday, 23 October 2008 |
Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2009
September 12th, 2008
It is hard to believe that this entire collection was ready-to-wear as it looked haute couture to even the trained eye. This spectacular collection was made in American factories and executed out of Ralph Rucci’s New York atelier. I had asked him why there was little color and due to the high techniques used in structure and geometric forms a color story of black, white, ivory, taupe and alabaster became the natural evolution for this very intricate collection. Ralph’s play on sheer fabrics with texture crafted an ivory dress and coat embellished with rectangular double-faced wool insets floating on tulle. The diagonal pin tucks shaped like double-headed nails cinched the waist of suit jackets and a silk faille rain jacket. The black silk tulle ribbon dress with tight bodice and full skirt simply floated and the black jersey tube dress with sheer inserts and high slit was very hot and sexy. The white silk crepe gown ornamented with silver Mylar fringe cascading down the back caught your breath. Mercedes-Benz honored Ralph Rucci as the featured designer for New York Fashion week and this artistic master’s broad range of sophisticated colors, architecturally complex construction and sleek silhouettes deserved the standing ovation at the end of his show.
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Thursday, 23 October 2008 |
Carmen Marc Valvo
September 12th, 2008
This whole collection was based on the square and rectangle with a modern graphic approach to dresses, skirts and swimwear. High shine and silver metallic were the focal point with very little color except grass, canary or chocolate. Carmen had decided that the woman wearing his collection likes to be sexy. The cocktail dress was concocted in many woven versions but each one had a twist based on the fabric in patent leather, silk ribbon, or pearl organza ribbon. The over sized basket weave was exceptional and based on the geometric shape Valvo played with this season.
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Tuesday, 23 September 2008 |
Rebecca Taylor Spring 2009
September 11th, 2008
The jodhpur was a key pant this season as it was shown in British khaki, olive and smoky lavender all looking very new. Just below the knee and tight on the leg it had great sex appeal especially if paired with a sequin knit tank top. There was a lot of surface interest with hammered sequins, pin-tucking, embroidery and metal embellishments. Another key message was feminine over sporty like the pin-tuck voile top with tiger silk short and mixing opposite patterns together, leopard knit top over a floral skirt or color blocking effect. The boy blazer being structured felt fresh with soft fabrics or layers of flounce. Taylor reinvented basics by adding a twist for a contemporary feeling.
Key Trends/Highlights:
• Jodhpur with tie front at knee
• Tiger print silk shorts
• Boy blazer
• Pin-tuck voile top
• Cream poplin blouse with embroidered neckline
• Hammered sequin knit dress
• Cream poplin sundress with embroidered neckline
• Leopard tee shirt skinny dress
• Orchid silk cloque asymmetric dress with metal embellishment
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